It feeds slack out smoother and faster than most tube-style devices and is definitely smoother than any assisted-braking device we tested. The Wild County Revo is hard to beat for feeding slack. A large portion of the Pilot is made from plastic, and while it hasn’t chipped or broken, the possibility of dropping it at the crag leaves me concerned. While the Pilot’s construction feels great in the hand, its plastic construction may also prove to be a downside. That said, it’s still much less than an ATC Guide or standard ATC. Your brake hand will still need to hold a notable amount of the climber’s weight. It pays out rope smoothly but doesn’t bite down as strongly as other assisted belay devices on the market. The ATC Pilot is Black Diamond’s assisted belay device, introduced last year. It feels great in the hand, and you can tell Black Diamond paid attention to where the hand instinctively grips belay devices. The Black Diamond ATC Pilotwas one of the best-feeling belay devices we tested. But we quickly got used to this and were able to use the device with ease and fun. Its rigid metal construction can dig into the hand a bit during use. The only downside to this device was its ergonomics. The belay device takes most of the weight, and a simple lift of the carabiner nose allows the belayer to feed slack again. We found the Smart 2.0 offered superior bite than other assisted belay devices, and belaying climbers was comfortable if they hung for extended periods of time. It functions similar to tube-style belay devices but offers superior bite when the leader falls or hangs for a while on the rope. The Smart 2.0is Mammut’s assisted belay device. Super Friction: Edelrid 'Mega Jul' Belay Device Reviewĭurable and multifunctional, Edelrid’s Mega Jul belay device makes belaying rock climbers safer and more efficient. Plus, its stainless steel construction promises longevity and shows Edelrid’s company-wide efforts to improve the sustainability of climbing gear. And tilting the device requires switching hand position.Īt 3.10 ounces, it’s hard to beat the versatility and low weight of the Mega Jul Sport. Slack is dished out quickly and smoothly, but lowering the climber is not as silky as devices that utilize a cam. The assist mechanism requires no moving parts, relying on grooves that engage with the belay carabiner to “lock” the rope.įeeding slack on lead and lowering is done by pulling up on the generous thumb loop, which keeps the hands in the familiar tube-style position and orientation. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). We got a chance to try it at one of the world's foremost climbing gyms. Petzl Introduces the newest member of the GRIGRI family, the GRIGRI+. Check It Outįirst Look: Petzl 'Anti-Panic' GRIGRI+ Belay Device And it’s more comfortable in the hand, featuring a more ergonomic design and construction that prevents the rope wearing into the device. The GRIGRI+ has evolved alongside modern, smaller-diameter ropes, with an ideal operating range of 8.9 to 10.5 mm. This optimizes the GRIGRI+ for top rope or lead climbing. If the lever is pulled down too hard, it engages the assisted braking.Īnother update: You can change the amount of friction required to cam the rope with a switch. This model has the added security of an anti-panic handle. The GRIGRI+ feels predictable and familiar. But afterward, feeding slack, belaying, and catching falls feels like - well - a GRIGRI. Proper technique must be mastered for this belay device. Petzl’s GRIGRIi+ is the third iteration of the device that started it all. The Best Assisted-Braking Belay Devices for Rock Climbing Petzl GRIGRI+: $150 So whether you’re a climbing first-timer looking for the best option or a seasoned veteran belaying your partner’s project, read on for the best assisted-braking belay devices of 2018. They’re a step up in climbing comfort when spending long days at the crag. Assisted-braking belay devices allow for superior holding power when catching and holding climbers. While there are minimal belay devices, like the classic Black Diamond ATC, we focused this review on more nuanced belay devices. And best of all, there are a lot of options to choose from to meet your specific needs. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing.Īn essential piece of every climber’s kit, belay devices are necessary to climb safely and handle rope. Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever.
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